Day 5: Savoca

IF READING ON YOUR PHONE, TILT SIDEWAYS FOR THE BEST VIEW:)

September 22, 2023: Had some breakfast at our B&B with a wonderful host and cafe americano hitting the spot. We had a 2hr 40 min drive ahead to the surprise location for a late lunch and a last-minute booking at a local house rental. 

Tips for freeway driving in Sicily: Attempting to stay within the white lane lines, following the speed limits and signaling your intentions are a red flag to your sissy-American status and an open invitation for some near-miss flybys and tailgating so close that you'd think the car behind you was attached to your trailer hitch. Then after passing you, the offending vehicle will return, not to its lane, but to a position straddling the center line. That being said, what a beautiful drive!

We made a stop along the way in small town outside of Messina to get gas and look at some local pottery. Then it was back on the road to Savoca. 

Savoca is a tiny village tucked into the mountains 2 miles up a steep and windy pass above the ocean. It is famous for many scenes from the Godfather have been filmed here, including Michael's talk with the father of his bride-to-be (Cafe Vitelli), the marriage ceremony (Chiesa di San Nicolo), donkey treks and walks up the village roads. It's just a beautiful little town and, since the movie's release in 1972, has seen lots of curious tourists. Many of the tourists we saw were actually Italian! Not sure why this surprised me, but it did. Luckily there are a number of restaurants in this tiny place to handle the influx. 

We were lucky that this was not the heavy tourist season and enjoyed an amazing lunch at Ristorante Gelso Nero while overlooking the mountains and ocean. I can really understand why people (population 1,700) might want to reside here. The best of both worlds within 15 minutes. We even saw a Sicilian sundeck (see pic)! 

But, that brings us to the 2nd half of our day...not so wonderful. We had a little house rented for the night 'nearby', but you know how the map function on our phone isn't necessarily in-tune with the width of the road vs the size of your vehicle? As I mentioned, this town is at the top of a mountain with cobble stone roads faced by short walls or buildings on each side. The route had us going up into the village and, potentially, down along the backside. I wouldn't know as we never got that far. 

See videos --- we started up and I'm immediately thinking this is bad and nowhere to turn around. But hey, I've driven in some tight spots so let's give this a try. No dice! As we drove farther and farther in 'the bigger car' (thanks again Drivalia) things got worse and worse. A little European Fiat might make it with some practiced precision. We were in trouble and there was nowhere to go but forward. 

Let me stop quickly and say just how nice the people in Sicily have been! At the toll plaza while calling for help (!), a road worker heard us and came over to jointly yell/translate alongside us to the person in the talking box. Another couple took time to explain to me how to order at a roadside cafe. And, today, a man from Savoca saw us coming and diverted his path to assist us down.

This man, wearing a bathing suit with a towel over his shoulder and appearing to be walking somewhere for a swim, looked as if this was a completely ordinary occurrence. He stopped, motioned to us, ran down to his scooter which he mounted and took off, waving for us to follow (I mean, what other direction would I have gone?). He got

to a point and jumped off, continuing to walk and point to where the car should be vectored. At one point near the end, spectators watched as we made one of the final turns to get back into the town... so epic. 

We were texting these issues to the people who were renting us the house, but they just kept sending pins and addresses which the phone translates to the shortest route. Then, as we pulled over in town, sweating and confused on how to proceed, a woman approached the car and asked if we were headed for the 'Sicily Relax House' (the rental). Yes! She had come to get us in her car. We followed her DOWN the hill (perhaps good information to have a little earlier) and the long way around to the home which was closer to the ocean. Whew!! 

Finished the evening with a wonderful dinner ---yes, back up to the village, minus the torturous route. Tomorrow -- A farm house B&B in Cerda.